KNOWLEDGE THAT REFUSES TO DISAPPEAR

Fotografie di Saqib Ali

Da oltre trent’anni il Kashmir è teatro di uno scontro tra due potenze nucleari, un conflitto che ha segnato il territorio e le vite delle persone, costringendo intere generazioni a crescere in un clima di militarizzazione e sfiducia. In questa realtà frammentata, le madrase resistono silenziosamente. Ai bambini che vivono in condizioni di povertà e conflitto offrono molto più che un insegnamento religioso: cibo, riparo e un fragile senso di ordine. Tuttavia, questi rifugi sono sottoposti a un controllo sempre più stretto, con revoche delle registrazioni, contestazioni dei programmi didattici e convocazioni degli amministratori. L’istruzione stessa diventa un atto politico, gravato dal sospetto. Tuttavia, le madrase rimangono aperte, gli insegnanti continuano a lavorare sotto sorveglianza e i bambini imparano senza sapere che le loro lezioni sono considerate sovversive. In un luogo in cui le narrazioni sono spesso dettate dal potere, questi spazi preservano la resistenza, la memoria culturale e il rifiuto di scomparire. Il loro significato non sta nello spettacolo, ma nel silenzioso e ostinato pulsare della vita che custodiscono.

Javed, a madrassa student from Tulail in Jammu and Kashmir, walks along a quiet mountain road near the Line of Control. Tulail, where this image was taken, lies deep in the Gurez valley near the Line of Control, surrounded by constant military presence and multiple army checkpoints. Once a vibrant stop along the ancient Silk Route connecting Kashmir to Yarkand and Kashgar, the region is now cut off for much of the year and carries the weight of both its forgotten history and ongoing conflict.
Students of Darul Uloom Riyaz-Us-Saliheen in Sopore, Jammu and Kashmir, enjoy their break time on a sunny afternoon, Sunday, August 3rd. Darul Uloom Riyaz-Us-Saliheen, located in Sopore, Jammu and Kashmir, is affiliated with Darul Uloom Nadwatul Ulama an esteemed Islamic seminary in Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, known for its balanced approach to traditional and contemporary Islamic education. The seminary in Sopore reflects this ethos, offering structured religious learning alongside a disciplined, community-focused environment for its students.
Students study Persian Language during the morning class at Ashraful Uloom, a Darul Uloom located in Hyderpora, Srinagar. The seminary offers Islmic Education to boys from across the region, aiming to preserve traditional acholarship in a mordern context. The Persian language played a crucial role in shaping Kashmir’s religious and cultural identity, introduced by Sufi saints like Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani in the 14th century. These scholars brought Islam to the valley, integrating Persian traditions into local society through theology, literature, and governance. Persian remained the official language for centuries, facilitating the spread of Sufi philosophy, which emphasized spirituality and compassion. The scene of a teacher instructing students in Persian reflects this enduring heritage, preserving the linguistic and theological roots that once guided Islamic scholarship in the region. Madrasas continue to uphold this tradition, ensuring that Kashmir’s connection to Persian influence remains a vital part of religious education.
A boy reads the Holy Quran inside a hostel at an Islamic institute in Aali Kadal, Srinagar, Jammu & Kashmir. The image, taken through a netted window from outside. Living in a hostel at an Islamic institute, students embark on a transformative journey of faith and knowledge, spending months away from their families in pursuit of religious enlightenment. Their daily routine is structured around study, prayer, and reflection, fostering a deep connection with sacred texts like the Holy Quran. The solitude of hostel life instills discipline and devotion, shaping their character and commitment to learning.
The gatekeeper of Sopore’s only girls’ madrassa seen from a classroom, pausing in the corridor outside. Her only son was killed near Sopore police station during the 2016 uprising. Since then, her husband has been unable to work, and she has become the family’s sole breadwinner, guarding the madrassa each day as both a livelihood and a quiet act of resilience.
Boys study Tajweed, the science of Quranic recitation, at a madrasa in Hyderpora. One student uses a mirror to check his tongue placement, ensuring correct pronunciation of Arabic letters. Tajweed is the science of proper Quranic recitation, ensuring that each letter is pronounced correctly and with the appropriate articulation. It is a fundamental aspect of Quranic study, allowing students to maintain the integrity of the sacred text and preserve its meaning through precise pronunciation. In this madrasa classroom, students use mirrors as a learning tool to refine their recitation. By observing their tongue placement in the mirror, they can ensure that each Arabic letter is pronounced from its correct point of articulation within the mouth. This technique helps them master the intricate phonetic details of Tajweed, an essential skill for accurate and respectful Quranic recitation. Through disciplined practice, they develop a deep connection with the text, enhancing both their understanding and their ability to recite with clarity.
Books scattered on the floor of the library at Qaasmiyah Madrassa in Srinagar, after shelves were recently reorganized. In recent months, the Kashmir Valley has witnessed a sweeping ban on Islamic literature, particularly targeting works authored by scholars affiliated with Jamiat-e-Islami. These books, long used in madrassas and private libraries for religious instruction, have now been removed under orders citing concerns of “radical content.” The ban has not only disrupted the intellectual and spiritual life of students but has also left libraries like this one in disarray.
A portrait of a blind boy, a student of Darul Uloom Ashraful Uloom in Hyderpora, Srinagar, enrolled to memorize the holy Quran. The image of the blind student memorising the Quran illustrates a profound narrative of resilience and dedication, despite the inability to see these individuals embrace a journey of spiritual enlightenment and knowledge demonstrating that physical limitations do not restrict their capacity to gain wisdom, and open their hearts to blissful spiritual fulfilment. Their devotion is a testament to the power of the human spirit in seeking enlightenment.
A teacher stands by the window inside Riyaz-us-Saliheen Madrassa in Sopore. Teachers are repeatedly summoned for questioning by government officials, their phone calls interrupted by intimidating inquiries about their work, their affiliations, and their teachings. Institutions that once existed as safe havens of learning are now frequently raided by the National Investigation Agency (NIA), leaving both students and teachers in a state of fear and uncertainty. This climate of persecution has transformed classrooms into contested spaces where the pursuit of knowledge is shadowed by suspicion.
A steel chest holding a folded turban and a used backpack. In Kashmir’s Darul Ulooms, students live a life steeped in discipline and devotion, with their personal spaces reflecting their commitment to religious learning. A humble wooden chest, holding a carefully folded turban and a worn out backpack. The turban, a mark of tradition and faith, sits alongside the backpack that carries books, essentials, and fragments of everyday life. Within these walls, simplicity intertwines with spiritual growth, shaping young minds as they navigate both knowledge and devotion.
A group of boys, students of the Madrassa Bandipora, Jammu and Kashmir, play outside the institution during a break from their studies. At the Madrassa in Bandipora, students balance study with play. Outside the madrassa, they run and laugh, enjoying simple games that nurture friendship, joy, and community.
A student at Furqaniyah madrasa in Nowshara, Srinagar, looks toward the camera during a lesson.
A teacher in Sopore’s only girls’ madrassa navigates a page of tafsir during a lesson with her students. Tafsir is the scholarly interpretation and explanation of the Qur’an, aiming to clarify meanings, context, and implications of its verses. Rooted in centuries of Islamic scholarship, it draws on language, history, and prophetic traditions to guide understanding. In madrassas like the one in Sopore, studying tafsir is central to advanced religious education, enabling students to engage deeply with the text beyond memorization, fostering comprehension and reflection on its application in daily life.
A female student holds the Holy Quran inside an all-women madrasa with henna-decorated hands. Islam emphasizes the dignity and modesty of women through principles like the hijab, a sign of devotion and respect rooted in the Quran. In women’s madrasas, these values are upheld, giving students space to pursue religious learning with modesty.
A girl wearing a veil sits inside a madrassa in Bandipora, Kashmir. The veil, a sign of modesty and faith, is widely respected in Kashmir. Often misrepresented in Western media, this image shows a young madrasa student wearing it with dignity and purpose.